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Getting a Grip on Hammers
The hammer is arguably one of the oldest tools known to humankind, evolving from simple stones to the specialized designs we see today. Its primary function is straightforward: delivering impact force to drive nails, shape metal, or break things apart. But not all hammers are created equal. Understanding their components helps in appreciating their design. A typical hammer consists of two main parts: the head and the handle. The head is usually made of hardened steel and has different configurations depending on the hammer’s purpose. One side is the face, the flat part used for striking. The other side often features a claw (for prying nails), a peen (for shaping metal), or another specialized shape. The handle provides leverage and grip, and can be made from wood (like hickory), steel, or fiberglass, often with a rubber or synthetic grip for comfort and shock absorption.Common Hammer Types
While numerous specialized hammers exist, a few common types cover most household and workshop needs:- Claw Hammer: This is the quintessential hammer found in most toolboxes. It features a flat striking face on one side of the head and a V-shaped claw on the other. The claw is specifically designed for pulling nails out of wood. They come in various weights, typically ranging from 8 to 20 ounces, referring to the head weight. Lighter hammers are for smaller tasks, while heavier ones provide more driving power.
- Ball-Peen Hammer: Often associated with metalworking, the ball-peen (or ball-pein) hammer has a flat face for general striking and a rounded ‘peen’ on the other side. This rounded end is used for shaping metal, rounding rivets, and closing fasteners. It’s not designed for driving nails.
- Sledgehammer: This is a brute force tool. With a large, heavy head (ranging from 2 to 20 pounds) and a long handle, it’s designed for demolition work, driving stakes, or breaking up concrete and stone. It requires two hands and a careful swing.
- Mallet: Mallets have heads made from softer materials like rubber, plastic, wood, or rawhide. They are used when you need to apply force without damaging the surface being struck, such as assembling furniture, working with chisels, or doing delicate sheet metal work.
Choosing and Using Your Hammer
Selecting the right hammer involves considering the job and your own comfort. For general household tasks, a 16-ounce claw hammer is a versatile choice. The handle material is a matter of preference: wood absorbs shock well but can break, steel is durable but transfers more vibration, and fiberglass offers a balance between durability and shock absorption. Ensure the hammer feels balanced and comfortable in your hand.Safety First! Always wear safety glasses when hammering. Debris can fly off nails or the workpiece. Inspect your hammer before use; check for a loose head or a damaged handle. Never strike hardened steel surfaces with a regular claw hammer, as this can cause chipping and dangerous flying fragments.
Hammer Maintenance
Keep your hammers clean and dry to prevent rust, especially on steel heads and handles. Check wooden handles for cracks or splinters. If a head becomes loose, stop using it immediately until it’s properly repaired or replaced. A well-maintained hammer is a safer and more effective tool.Nailing Down the Details: All About Nails
Nails are the humble partners to the hammer, fasteners designed to join pieces of material, typically wood. Like hammers, they come in a vast array of types and sizes, each suited for specific applications. A nail’s basic structure includes the head (the part struck by the hammer), the shank (the body of the nail), and the point (the sharp end that enters the material).Understanding Nail Varieties
The differences lie in the head shape, shank texture, material, coating, and overall size.- Common Nails: These are the workhorses for general construction and framing. They have a thick shank for strength and a wide, flat head that makes them easy to drive and provides good holding power. They leave a visible head on the surface.
- Finishing Nails: Thinner than common nails, finishing nails have a small, barrel-shaped head designed to be driven slightly below the wood surface using a nail set. The resulting small hole is easily filled, making them ideal for trim work, cabinetry, and other applications where appearance matters.
- Brad Nails (Brads): Even smaller and thinner than finishing nails, brads are used for delicate trim work, picture frames, and attaching thin mouldings. They leave a very small hole and offer minimal holding power, often used in conjunction with glue. Many are designed for use in pneumatic nail guns.
- Roofing Nails: These nails have a wide, flat head and a relatively short, stout shank. They are typically galvanized (coated with zinc) to resist rust. The large head helps hold roofing felt and shingles securely without tearing through the material.
- Masonry Nails: Made from hardened steel, these nails are designed to be driven into concrete, brick, or block. They often have a fluted shank for better grip in masonry materials. Driving them requires significant force and careful hammering.
Decoding Nail Sizes: The Penny System
Nail sizes are often designated by the “penny” system, abbreviated with a lowercase “d”. The origin of this term is debated, possibly relating to the price per hundred nails in historical England. What matters now is that a higher “d” number indicates a longer and often thicker nail. For example, a 16d nail (about 3.5 inches long) is much larger and stronger than a 6d nail (about 2 inches long). Charts are readily available online or in hardware stores correlating penny sizes to inches or millimeters.Choosing Correctly is Key. Using the right nail type and size is crucial for a strong and lasting connection. A nail that’s too short won’t provide adequate hold, while one that’s too long or thick might split the wood. Consider the thickness of the materials being joined and the required holding strength.
The Hammer Meets the Nail: Technique Matters
Driving a nail seems simple, but technique makes a difference between a cleanly driven fastener and a bent nail or bruised thumb. Here’s a basic approach:- Positioning: Hold the nail upright between your thumb and forefinger at the point where you want to drive it. If working with small nails or close to edges, use a nail holder or start the nail by tapping it lightly before removing your fingers.
- Starting Tap: Give the nail head a couple of light taps with the hammer face to set it into the wood slightly. This allows you to remove your fingers safely.
- Driving Swings: Keep your eye on the nail head, not the hammer. Swing the hammer using your elbow and shoulder, not just your wrist, for better control and power. Aim for smooth, firm, square hits on the nail head. Let the weight of the hammer do most of the work.
- Finishing: As the nail head nears the surface, reduce the force of your swings to avoid denting the wood around the nail. For finishing nails, stop when the head is flush and use a nail set tool and a final hammer tap to sink the head just below the surface.
