It hits you immediately – that potent, unmistakable flavor. Sweet, yet sharp, often with anise-like notes, sometimes salty, sometimes bordering on medicinal. We’re talking about licorice, a flavor profile that inspires passionate devotion in some and utter revulsion in others. There’s rarely an in-between. But how did this botanical root journey from ancient remedy to polarizing candy aisle staple? Its story is as complex and layered as its taste.
The tale begins not in a candy factory, but in the sun-baked lands of the ancient world. The licorice plant, Glycyrrhiza glabra, a humble-looking legume with feathery leaves and purple flowers, holds the secret in its roots. The name itself whispers of its primary characteristic: derived from the Greek ‘glykys’ (sweet) and ‘rhiza’ (root). And sweet it is – its primary compound, glycyrrhizin, is estimated to be 30 to 50 times sweeter than sucrose. Early civilizations certainly noticed. Evidence suggests licorice root was treasured in ancient Egypt; traces were famously found in Tutankhamun’s tomb, perhaps packed for his journey into the afterlife. Ancient Greeks like Theophrastus documented its use, and Roman legions reportedly carried it to quench thirst and boost stamina on long marches. It wasn’t candy, but its intense sweetness and perceived properties made it valuable.
As empires rose and fell, licorice root traveled trade routes, slowly embedding itself into different cultures. Throughout the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance, its cultivation spread across Europe. Monks in monasteries often grew medicinal herbs, and licorice found a place in their gardens. It was primarily used in herbal preparations, often to mask the unpleasant taste of other medicines or brewed into fortifying drinks. Its sweetness was still a major draw in eras where sugar was an expensive luxury. In England, the town of Pontefract in Yorkshire became synonymous with licorice cultivation as early as the 16th century.
The Sweet Transformation: From Root to Confection
The real shift towards licorice as a treat began gradually. While chewed roots and simple infusions were common, the idea of turning it into a dedicated confection took time. One pivotal moment occurred in Pontefract around the 17th century. Apothecary George Dunhill is often credited (though historical details can be murky) with mixing licorice extract with flour and sugar, creating small, round black lozenges stamped with an image of Pontefract Castle. These Pontefract Cakes or Pomfret Cakes are considered among the earliest forms of licorice candy and are still produced today.
The licorice plant, Glycyrrhiza glabra, is a herbaceous perennial legume native to Western Asia and Southern Europe. Its sweetness comes primarily from glycyrrhizin, a compound found in the root. This compound is significantly sweeter than regular sugar. The plant itself grows up to a meter tall with pinnate leaves.
Across the North Sea, the Dutch were developing their own passionate relationship with licorice, known as ‘drop‘. The Netherlands boasts arguably the highest per capita consumption of licorice in the world. Dutch drop comes in an astonishing variety – sweet (‘zoet’), salty (‘zout’), double salty (‘dubbel zout’), hard, soft, shaped like coins, cats, or cars. The addition of ammonium chloride creates the distinctly sharp, salty flavor known as ‘salmiak’ or ‘salmiakki’, particularly beloved in the Netherlands and Nordic countries. This salty variant is often a major hurdle for those unaccustomed to it.
Across the Atlantic and Beyond
When licorice crossed the Atlantic to America, it underwent further transformations. While traditional black licorice found its audience, American confectionery innovation led to the rise of “red licorice“. It’s a point of contention for purists, as most red licorice contains no actual licorice root extract. Instead, it mimics the chewy texture but uses flavors like strawberry, cherry, or raspberry. Yet, the name stuck, adding another layer to the licorice identity. Other countries developed their own takes, incorporating licorice into everything from chewy ropes and pastilles to flavored chewing gum and even alcoholic beverages like Sambuca or Pastis, which often use anise or star anise for a similar flavor profile.
Why So Divisive? The Flavor Science and Psychology
What makes licorice so polarizing? Part of the answer lies in its complex flavor chemistry. The dominant compound is glycyrrhizin, providing intense sweetness. But another key player is anethole, the aromatic compound also found in anise, star anise, and fennel. This gives licorice its characteristic aromatic, slightly spicy, and sometimes perceived “medicinal” note. For some, this combination is delightful and intriguing. For others, the anethole note is overpowering or triggers unpleasant associations, perhaps with cough syrup or remedies from childhood.
There’s also the unique impact of salmiak (ammonium chloride) in salty licorice. This creates a trigeminal sensation – a physical feeling in the mouth, stimulating nerve endings – that’s quite different from simple saltiness. It can be tingling, sharp, even slightly burning. This intensity is adored by fans but can be shocking and off-putting to the uninitiated. Cultural exposure plays a huge role. If you grow up with salty ‘drop’ in the Netherlands or ‘salmiakki’ in Finland, it’s a familiar, comforting taste. If your first encounter is as an adult accustomed only to sweet candies, the reaction might be dramatically different. Some researchers even speculate about genetic predispositions influencing how we perceive bitterness or specific aromatic compounds like anethole, potentially contributing to the love-it-or-hate-it phenomenon.
Licorice Today: Still Going Strong
Despite its divisive nature, licorice endures. It occupies a unique niche in the confectionery world, from traditional Pontefract Cakes and Dutch drop to gourmet artisanal varieties featuring exotic pairings. Black licorice ropes remain a classic, while salty licorice maintains its devoted following, particularly in Northern Europe. Beyond candy, licorice root extract finds its way into herbal teas, tobacco flavoring, and even some savory culinary experiments, where its unique sweetness and aroma can add depth to sauces or meat rubs, used sparingly.
The story of licorice is a journey through time, trade, and taste buds. From an ancient root valued for sweetness and sustenance to a globally recognized, intensely debated flavor, it has carved out a unique identity. Whether you crave its bold, complex notes or wrinkle your nose at the mere mention of it, there’s no denying the staying power of licorice. It’s a flavor that demands a reaction, a testament to its long, rich, and often surprising history. It reminds us that taste is deeply personal, shaped by culture, chemistry, and perhaps even a bit of mystery locked within that unassuming root.
