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Early Stirrings and Necessity
While pinpointing the absolute first instance of shoulder straps holding up leg coverings is tricky, the concept certainly predates the 19th century. Various forms of straps and harnesses were likely used informally for centuries, particularly with looser fitting breeches or work garments. However, the modern suspender really began to take shape alongside evolving trouser styles. During the tumultuous period of the French Revolution and the subsequent decades, men’s fashion underwent significant shifts. Breeches gradually gave way to longer trousers, and waistlines began to climb higher. These high-waisted trousers presented a challenge. A belt cinched around the natural waist wouldn’t effectively support trousers designed to sit much higher, often near the wearer’s ribs. This anatomical reality created a need for a different kind of support system, one that relied on the shoulders rather than the waist. Early iterations were often simple strips of fabric, sometimes attached directly to the trousers or utilizing makeshift buttoning systems. They were purely functional, hidden beneath waistcoats and jackets, and certainly not considered a fashion statement.The Thurston Era: Formalizing the Function
The pivotal moment in suspender history arrived in the 1820s. Credit is widely given to Albert Thurston, a British designer operating from Panton Street in London. While he may not have invented the absolute concept, Thurston designed and marketed some of the first commercially available, modern-style suspenders, often referred to as braces in the UK. His designs coincided perfectly with the high-waisted trousers favoured during the Regency and Victorian periods.Albert Thurston began selling his braces around 1820 from his emporium in London. His company is still operational today, producing high-quality suspenders. These early designs typically attached to trousers via buttons sewn onto the waistband, both inside and outside. This button-on system provided a secure and neat hold, allowing trousers to hang smoothly from the shoulder.Thurston’s braces, and those made by competitors who quickly followed, became an essential part of a gentleman’s wardrobe. They were crafted from various materials, including sturdy boxcloth, leather, and later, elasticated fabrics. Designs varied, but the fundamental principle remained: two straps over the shoulders, crossing or joining in the back (forming an X or Y shape), and attaching to the trouser waistband at the front and back. Critically, during this era, suspenders were considered underwear. It was a social faux pas for them to be seen publicly, always concealed beneath a waistcoat or jacket. This perception reinforced their purely functional role in polite society.
The Reign of Suspenders
Throughout the remainder of the 19th century and into the early 20th century, suspenders reigned supreme. Belts existed, but they were primarily associated with military uniforms or rugged workwear, not with tailored suits or formal attire. The cut of trousers demanded suspenders for a proper fit and drape. Without the tension pulling upwards from the shoulders, the high waistbands would bunch and sag unattractively if held by a belt alone. The design evolved subtly. Different fastening mechanisms were experimented with, though buttons remained the standard for quality tailoring. The width and materials changed with fashion trends, but the necessity of suspenders for well-dressed men was unquestioned. They offered unparalleled comfort for many, distributing the weight of the trousers onto the shoulders rather than constricting the waist. This was particularly beneficial for heavier men or those wearing dense wool trousers.The Rise of the Belt and Shifting Styles
The early 20th century began to witness a gradual shift. Several factors contributed to the decline of suspenders’ dominance and the rise of the belt.Changing Trouser Silhouettes
Fashion is rarely static. Following World War I, men’s trouser styles started to change. Waistlines began to drop, moving closer to the natural waist. This seemingly small change had a significant impact. Lower-waisted trousers could be supported more effectively by a belt wrapped around the hips or waist. The high anchor point provided by suspenders became less crucial for achieving the desired silhouette.Military Influence
World War I saw millions of men issued uniforms that often incorporated belts. This mass exposure familiarized a generation with belts as a standard way to hold up trousers. Returning soldiers brought this familiarity back to civilian life. Belts gained an association with military smartness and practicality.Practicality and Casualization
As lifestyles became more casual, so did clothing. Belts were perceived by many as simpler and quicker to put on than buttoning suspenders. The rise of ready-to-wear clothing also favoured belts, which required less specific tailoring compared to trousers needing suspender buttons properly placed. Belt loops became a standard feature on mass-produced trousers.By the late 1930s and accelerating after World War II, the belt had largely usurped the suspender’s position in everyday menswear. Suspenders began to be seen as more old-fashioned or reserved primarily for formal wear, like tuxedos which traditionally lacked belt loops. They also retained favour among some professions requiring heavy workwear or among men who simply preferred the comfort.
Revivals and Modern Interpretations
While belts became the norm, suspenders never truly disappeared. They retreated from the mainstream but maintained a presence in formalwear and among certain style-conscious groups. The late 20th century saw periodic revivals. The 1960s saw a brief mod embrace of colourful braces, sometimes worn visibly as a statement. Later, the 1980s witnessed a significant resurgence, partly driven by the “power dressing” trend epitomized by figures like Gordon Gekko in the film “Wall Street.” Suspenders became associated with financial professionals and a certain bold, assertive style. This era also saw the popularization of clip-on suspenders. While traditionalists often favour button-on braces for their secure hold and cleaner look, clip-ons offered convenience, allowing suspenders to be worn with any trousers, regardless of whether they had suspender buttons. In more recent decades, suspenders have settled into a comfortable niche. They are a staple of black-tie attire, considered the correct way to support tuxedo trousers. They are favoured by vintage enthusiasts and feature in subcultures like steampunk or rockabilly. Many men rediscover them for comfort, especially those who dislike the constriction of a belt or find belts less effective for their body shape. Workmen in various trades often rely on heavy-duty work suspenders for comfort and support when carrying tools or wearing thick work pants.Suspenders Today: Choice and Style
Today, wearing suspenders is largely a conscious choice rather than a necessity dictated by trouser design. They exist in a vast array of styles, colours, patterns, and widths.- Attachment: Button-on (considered more traditional and secure) vs. Clip-on (more convenient and versatile).
- Back Style: Y-back (two straps merging into one down the back) vs. X-back (two straps crossing).
- Material: Elastic, boxcloth, silk, leather, patterned fabrics.
- Width: Ranging from very narrow fashion styles to wider, more traditional or work-oriented designs.
