Long before the humble belt cinched waists across the globe, another ingenious contraption held the line against gravity’s relentless pull on men’s trousers: suspenders. Known as braces in the United Kingdom, these straps reaching over the shoulders have a surprisingly rich and varied history, deeply intertwined with the evolution of fashion, social norms, and even practicality.
Holding up one’s trousers might seem like a simple problem today, but for centuries, it required creative solutions. Before dedicated suspenders emerged, men relied on various methods. Early breeches might be held up by tying them tightly with drawstrings or points attached to a doublet. As fashion shifted towards separate trousers, particularly the higher-waisted styles that became prominent in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, simply tightening the waist wasn’t always sufficient or comfortable. The cut of these garments often sat well above the natural waistline, making a belt impractical and ineffective. This fashion necessity paved the way for a more dedicated solution.
The Dawn of Dedicated Support
While rudimentary strap systems likely existed earlier, the story of modern suspenders often picks up steam around the time of the French Revolution. Fashion underwent significant changes, moving away from aristocratic knee-breeches towards the longer trousers, or pantaloons, associated with the working class and revolutionary ideals (sans-culottes). These new styles, often cut generously and sitting high on the torso, cried out for overhead support. Early versions were essentially simple straps of fabric or ribbon, attached to buttons sewn inside or outside the trouser waistband.
Some accounts playfully suggest Benjamin Franklin might have used simple suspenders, though concrete evidence is scarce. What’s clearer is that by the turn of the 19th century, the concept was gaining traction among gentlemen who favoured the fashionable high waistline. These early iterations were strictly considered underwear, hidden beneath waistcoats and jackets, never intended for public view. Showing one’s suspenders would have been a significant social faux pas, akin to revealing one’s undergarments today.
Albert Thurston and the Formalisation
The narrative often credits British haberdasher Albert Thurston with popularising, if not inventing, the modern form of suspenders around 1820. Operating from his shop at 27 Panton Street, Haymarket, London, Thurston designed and marketed sturdy, comfortable braces that quickly gained favour. His designs addressed the need for reliable support for the era’s tailoring.
Albert Thurston’s company, established in 1820, is still in operation today, making it one of the oldest suspender brands in the world. His early success was built on providing high-quality braces suitable for gentlemen wearing the high-waisted trousers of the Regency period. These were typically made from materials like boxcloth, known for its durability, with leather ends for buttoning onto trousers.
Thurston’s suspenders, and others like them, typically attached via buttons sewn onto the trouser waistband – usually six buttons: two pairs at the front and one pair at the back. This system ensured an even distribution of support and allowed the trousers to hang correctly, maintaining the intended silhouette and a clean line without the bunching that a belt might cause. The original designs often featured an H-back configuration, later evolving into X-back and the still-popular Y-back shapes. Materials ranged from sturdy wool boxcloth and silk to elasticated fabrics as technology progressed.
The Reign of Suspenders: The Victorian and Edwardian Eras
Throughout the 19th century and into the early 20th century, suspenders were the undisputed champion of trouser support for men. They were standard issue, worn by men across social strata, from labourers needing practical support for heavy work trousers to gentlemen pairing silk braces with their formal evening wear. The high cut of trousers remained the norm, making belts largely unsuitable. Waistcoats were almost universally worn, ensuring the suspenders remained hidden from view as etiquette demanded.
Different styles and materials denoted formality and status. Plain, sturdy materials were for everyday wear, while finer silks, intricate patterns, and even embroidered designs graced the braces worn for more formal occasions. They were an essential, albeit unseen, component of a well-dressed man’s wardrobe.
Functionality Beyond Fashion
Beyond merely holding up trousers, suspenders offered distinct advantages. They allowed trousers to hang loosely from the shoulder, promoting better air circulation and comfort, especially in warmer weather or during physical activity. For men with larger waistlines, suspenders provided superior comfort compared to a belt digging into the midsection. They also helped maintain a cleaner trouser line, preventing the fabric from bunching at the waist and ensuring a smoother drape – a crucial element of tailored clothing.
The Belt Tightens Its Grip
The dominance of suspenders began to wane in the early decades of the 20th century. Several factors contributed to this shift. Military uniforms, particularly during World War I, increasingly incorporated belts worn on the outside of lower-waisted trousers, normalising their appearance and practicality. After the war, returning servicemen brought this preference for belts back into civilian life.
Fashion trends also played a crucial role. Trouser waistlines began to drop closer to the natural waist, making belts a more viable and comfortable option. The gradual decline in the everyday use of waistcoats also meant that suspenders, previously hidden, were now more exposed – and still considered underwear by many. Belts, worn visibly, became a fashion accessory in their own right, available in various materials and buckle designs.
A common style query is whether one can wear both suspenders and a belt simultaneously. The definitive answer from a sartorial perspective is no. Both serve the same function; wearing both is redundant and considered a fashion mistake. Choose one method to hold up your trousers effectively and stylishly.
By the 1930s and 40s, belts had largely overtaken suspenders in popularity for everyday wear. Suspenders began to be perceived as somewhat old-fashioned, associated with older generations or specific formal contexts like black tie attire, where the clean lines they provided under a tuxedo jacket remained highly valued.
Decline and Niche Survival
Through the mid-20th century, suspenders settled into a niche existence. They were still favoured by some professionals for comfort and practicality – think lawyers, bankers who appreciated the formal look, or workers like lumberjacks and firefighters whose heavy gear or movements made belts less practical. They remained obligatory for traditional formal wear but vanished from most men’s daily wardrobes.
Clip-on suspenders emerged as a more convenient alternative to the traditional button-on style, catering to trousers not equipped with brace buttons. However, purists often view clip-ons as less secure and less aesthetically pleasing than their buttoned counterparts, arguing they can damage the trouser waistband over time.
The Stylish Comeback
Like many fashion items, suspenders experienced a revival, starting subtly in the late 1970s and gaining momentum in the 1980s. This resurgence was partly driven by cinematic influences (think Gordon Gekko in “Wall Street”) and subcultures like punk and ska adopting them as a rebellious fashion statement. No longer confined to being hidden underwear, suspenders started being worn visibly, sometimes even without a jacket, as a deliberate style choice.
Designers embraced the trend, offering suspenders in a vast array of colours, patterns, widths, and materials, transforming them from a purely functional item into a versatile accessory. From classic stripes and polka dots to bold novelty prints, suspenders offered a new way for men (and increasingly, women) to express personality through their attire.
Suspenders in the Modern Wardrobe
Today, suspenders occupy a unique place in fashion. While belts remain the default for most, suspenders are appreciated by a discerning crowd for both their aesthetic appeal and functional benefits. They offer a touch of vintage charm, a dapper elegance, or even an edgy vibe, depending on the style and how they’re worn. They are still considered the superior choice for formal wear, ensuring trousers hang perfectly with evening jackets and tuxedos.
Beyond style, many rediscover the practical advantages: unparalleled comfort, especially for those sitting for long periods or with varying waistlines, and the posture-enhancing effect of drawing support from the shoulders rather than constricting the waist. Whether chosen for historical appreciation, sartorial flair, or pure comfort, suspenders prove that this centuries-old method of holding up trousers is far from obsolete. They are a testament to enduring design and a stylish nod to the days before belts ruled the waistline.
