That sweet, slightly medicinal, yet utterly refreshing taste of root beer is deeply ingrained in the American palate. Unlike colas or lemon-lime sodas with more global origins, root beer feels distinctly, undeniably American. Its complex flavor profile, often evoking wintergreen, vanilla, and licorice, comes from a history as tangled and fascinating as the roots it was once primarily derived from. It wasn’t born in a corporate lab overnight; it evolved over centuries, bubbling up from folk traditions, pharmacy counters, and entrepreneurial spirit.
From Forest Remedies to Farmhouse Brews
Long before fizzy drinks lined supermarket shelves, indigenous peoples of North America were well acquainted with the properties of plants like sassafras and sarsaparilla. The roots and bark of the sassafras tree, in particular, were used for culinary purposes and brewed into teas believed to have medicinal benefits, often used as a general tonic or blood purifier. Sarsaparilla root, too, had a history of use as a remedy for various ailments. European colonists learned about these native plants and incorporated them into their own traditions.
These traditions included the brewing of “small beers.” In eras when clean drinking water wasn’t always guaranteed, families often brewed low-alcohol beverages at home. These weren’t the potent beers we know today but rather lightly fermented drinks made from whatever was available – grains, molasses, herbs, spices, and, significantly, roots. Birch beer, ginger beer, and early forms of root beer were part of this home-brewing culture, providing hydration and flavor, with recipes varying widely from household to household.
The Pharmacist Who Poured the Foundation
The transition from folk remedy and homebrew to commercial soda owes a significant debt to a Philadelphia pharmacist named Charles Elmer Hires. The story, possibly embellished for marketing purposes over the years, often goes that Hires discovered a recipe for a delicious herbal tea while on his honeymoon in New Jersey around 1875. He supposedly tweaked the recipe, which contained a blend of roots, berries, and herbs, back in his pharmacy.
Initially, Hires marketed his creation not as a ready-to-drink beverage but as a powder or liquid concentrate. You’d buy “Hires’ Root Tea” mix and brew it at home. Seeing its potential, especially amidst the growing temperance movement which advocated against alcoholic beverages, Hires aimed for broader appeal. He smartly decided to rebrand his concoction. Legend has it that a friend suggested changing the name from “Root Tea” to “Root Beer” to make it more appealing to the working class, particularly Pennsylvania coal miners. While “tea” sounded mild, “beer” sounded more robust and manly, even though the drink was intended to be alcohol-free.
Charles Hires was a savvy marketer who understood the power of branding. He heavily promoted his root beer concentrate, emphasizing its wholesome, natural ingredients. His big break came at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Exposition, where he gave out free samples of his brew, significantly boosting its popularity and laying the groundwork for commercial success. Hires’ efforts transformed root beer from a niche homebrew into a nationally recognized beverage concept.
Hires wasn’t just selling a drink; he was selling an idea – a non-alcoholic, flavorful alternative that fit perfectly into the social currents of the time. His concentrated extracts made it easy for families and, increasingly, soda fountains to offer the beverage.
Soda Fountains and the Golden Age
The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the rise of the American soda fountain. These establishments became community hubs, places for socializing, refreshment, and enjoying sweet treats. Pharmacists often ran them initially, leveraging their knowledge of mixing syrups and carbonated water. Root beer quickly became a star attraction.
Served frosty cold in heavy glass mugs, it was a delightful experience. Its unique flavor profile set it apart from the fruitier sodas available. And then came a stroke of genius: the root beer float. The combination of creamy vanilla ice cream bobbing in sharp, fizzy root beer created a beloved dessert drink that cemented root beer’s place in American culture. Who exactly invented it is debated, with Frank J. Wisner of Cripple Creek, Colorado, often cited (around 1893), but its appeal was immediate and widespread.
Competition Brews
Hires may have been the pioneer, but he wasn’t alone for long. Other entrepreneurs saw the potential. In 1898, Edward Barq, Sr. launched his brand in Biloxi, Mississippi. Barq’s Famous Olde Tyme Root Beer had a distinctively sharper, less sweet flavor profile, famously marketed with the slogan “Drink Barq’s. It’s good.” Notably, Barq’s originally contained caffeine, setting it apart from many competitors.
Another major player emerged in 1919 when Roy W. Allen set up a root beer stand in Lodi, California, during a parade honoring returning World War I veterans. His creamy, rich brew was a hit. He soon partnered with Frank Wright, and combining their initials, they formed A&W Root Beer in 1922. A&W pioneered the concept of roadside root beer stands and drive-ins, becoming synonymous with frosty mugs and classic American car culture.
Numerous regional brands also popped up, each with slight variations in their secret formulas, contributing to the diverse landscape of root beer flavors across the country.
A Flavor Alteration: The Sassafras Situation
For decades, the signature bite of many root beers came primarily from sassafras oil, derived from the root bark of the sassafras tree. However, scientific research in the mid-20th century raised concerns. The main component of sassafras oil, safrole, was identified as a potential carcinogen in animal studies.
In 1960, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) banned the use of sassafras oil containing safrole in commercially produced foods and beverages. This forced root beer manufacturers to reformulate their recipes. Most brands switched to using artificial sassafras flavoring or safrole-free sassafras extract to replicate the traditional taste without the health risks associated with safrole. This change marked a significant shift in the production of commercial root beer.
While some purists lamented the change, the industry adapted. Modern root beers strive to capture that classic flavor profile using safe, approved ingredients. Interestingly, naturally brewed, traditional-style root beers made without safrole-containing sassafras are still possible and part of the craft soda movement.
Enduring Appeal and Craft Revival
Despite the proliferation of countless other soda flavors, root beer retains a special place. It evokes nostalgia for soda fountains, drive-ins, and simpler times for many Americans. It’s a flavor that is complex, comforting, and distinctly different from colas or fruit sodas.
In recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in craft sodas, mirroring the craft beer movement. Small-batch producers are experimenting with high-quality ingredients, natural sweeteners like cane sugar, and unique botanical blends to create premium root beers. These craft versions often emphasize traditional methods and complex flavor profiles, appealing to consumers seeking alternatives to mass-market brands.
From its origins as an indigenous remedy and farmhouse brew to its commercialization by savvy pharmacists and its status as a soda fountain staple, root beer’s story is a fascinating slice of Americana. It’s a beverage that evolved with the country, adapting to changing tastes, regulations, and social trends, yet somehow managing to hold onto its unique identity – that unmistakable, root-infused flavor that continues to refresh and delight.
