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Whispers from Antiquity: Early Forms of Comfort
While the tailored robe as we often picture it today wasn’t quite present in ancient Egypt, Greece, or Rome, the concept of loose, comfortable garments worn within the home or in relaxed settings certainly existed. Egyptians favoured lightweight linen tunics, ideal for the warm climate, offering ease of movement. The Romans had their famous toga, which, while a symbol of citizenship worn publicly, was cumbersome. Within the privacy of their villas, simpler, looser tunics (tunica) would have been preferred for comfort. Greek chitons, similarly, were draped garments offering flexibility. These early examples weren’t specifically ‘loungewear’ in the modern sense, as the distinction between public and private dress wasn’t always as sharply defined, especially for non-elites. However, they laid the groundwork: the idea of a flowing garment, distinct from more structured or utilitarian clothing, providing physical ease. Materials like linen and wool were common, chosen for practicality and availability rather than overt luxury in most cases, though the quality and dye could certainly indicate status.Eastern Elegance: The Kimono and Caftan Influence
The history of the robe owes a significant debt to Eastern cultures. In Japan, the kimono evolved over centuries from Han Chinese influences into a distinct T-shaped, straight-lined robe worn so the hem falls to the ankle, secured by a sash (obi). Traditionally made from silk for formal occasions and cotton (yukata) for informal wear or after bathing, the kimono represented artistry, social status, and a different philosophy of dress compared to the West. Its wrap design offered comfort and adaptability. Further west, the Middle East and Central Asia gave us the caftan (or kaftan). This garment, typically a long coat or overdress, often buttoned or belted, was worn by numerous cultures across the region for centuries. Made from various materials like wool, silk, cotton, or cashmere, its loose fit provided comfort in diverse climates. Luxurious caftans were symbols of royalty and wealth in empires like the Ottoman. It was through trade routes, particularly the Silk Road, that these Eastern designs began to seep into European consciousness, initially as exotic and luxurious items.Medieval Warmth and Renaissance Distinctions
In Medieval Europe, life was often harsh, and indoor heating was rudimentary. Clothing needed to provide warmth. While distinct indoor-only robes weren’t widespread among the general populace, the wealthy began to adopt looser overgarments for wear within their castles and manors. The houppelande, popular in the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance, was a voluminous outer garment often made of rich fabrics like velvet or brocade and sometimes lined with fur. While worn outdoors, its fullness and richness hinted at the comfort and status associated with later indoor gowns. During the Renaissance, the distinction between public and private attire became more pronounced, especially for the aristocracy and burgeoning merchant classes. Portraits began to depict individuals in slightly more relaxed, though still often opulent, clothing within domestic settings. The idea of specific garments for specific times of day or activities started to take root, paving the way for dedicated loungewear.The Dawn of the Dressing Gown: The Banyan Takes Hold
The 17th and 18th centuries marked a pivotal moment with the arrival and popularization of the banyan in Europe. Also known as an Indian gown, morning gown, or nightgown (though distinct from sleeping garments), the banyan was directly inspired by Japanese kimonos and Persian/Turkish caftans encountered through trade. It was essentially a loose, T-shaped or kimono-like robe, often made from imported silks, colourful printed cottons (chintz), or rich damasks. Adopted primarily by men of the upper and middle classes, the banyan signified a departure from the restrictive formal coats, waistcoats, and breeches of the era. It was worn at home, often in the morning or evening, while reading, writing, receiving close guests, or simply relaxing. It became associated with intellectual pursuits, worldly knowledge (due to its exotic origins), and informal comfort. Portraits from this period frequently depict gentlemen proudly sporting their banyans, often paired with a soft cap or turban. This garment firmly established the concept of the dedicated ‘dressing gown’ in the Western wardrobe.The term ‘Banyan’ likely derived from the Gujarati word ‘vāṇiyo’ or Sanskrit ‘vaṇij’, referring to traders from India, particularly the region where European merchants first encountered similar garments. This highlights the crucial role of global trade in shaping Western fashion and domestic habits during the 17th and 18th centuries. The adoption of the banyan reflected both a fascination with the East and a growing desire for personal comfort.
