Think about slipping into your favorite pajamas at the end of a long day. That feeling of comfort, of shedding the outside world and embracing relaxation, is almost universal now. But have you ever stopped to wonder where these garments came from? It feels like they’ve always been there, the standard uniform for slumber. Yet, the journey of pajamas from their origins to our bedside tables is a fascinating tale of cultural exchange, changing fashions, and evolving ideas about comfort and modesty.
For much of Western history, the go-to sleepwear wasn’t the two-piece pajama set we know today. People typically slept in long, shapeless garments called nightshirts or nightgowns, often made of linen or wool. These were essentially variations of the simple shifts or chemises worn as undergarments during the day. They were functional, providing warmth and covering, but perhaps not the pinnacle of comfort or style by modern standards. The idea of dedicated, stylish sleepwear, particularly featuring trousers, was completely foreign for centuries.
Eastern Roots: The Birth of the ‘Pae Jama’
The story of pajamas begins not in European bedrooms, but thousands of miles away in the East. The word itself provides the first clue. “Pajama” derives from the Persian word ‘pāy-jāmeh’ (پايجامه) or the Hindi/Urdu ‘pājāmā’ (پاجامہ), literally meaning “leg garment.” These weren’t originally intended for sleeping. They were, and in many parts of South Asia and the Middle East still are, lightweight, loose-fitting trousers tied at the waist with a drawstring. Worn by both men and women, they were valued for their comfort and practicality in warm climates.
Imagine the heat of India or Persia. Heavy, restrictive clothing would be unbearable. The loose cut of the pajama trousers allowed for air circulation, making them ideal daily wear. They were often paired with a tunic or kurta. This traditional attire reflected cultural norms and the demands of the environment. It was a sensible, comfortable solution for everyday life, far removed from the eventual association with bedtime in the West.
Verified Origin: The term “pajama” originates from the Persian ‘pāy-jāmeh’ or Hindi/Urdu ‘pājāmā’. This translates directly to “leg garment”. These loose trousers were traditional daywear in many parts of Asia long before being adopted as sleepwear in the West. Their initial function was everyday comfort and climate suitability.
Encountering the Exotic: British Colonials and Pajamas
The turning point for pajamas came with European colonialism. As the British established their presence in India from the 17th century onwards, they encountered this different style of dress. Initially viewed as exotic and perhaps slightly informal native attire, some British men began to adopt pajama trousers for lounging, particularly within the confines of their own homes or private clubs. They appreciated the comfort and relaxed fit compared to the more structured European trousers of the era.
It wasn’t an immediate switch to nighttime wear. Returning colonials brought the style back to Britain, primarily during the 18th and 19th centuries, but it remained niche. They were often referred to as “pyjamas,” “mogul breeches,” or simply “long drawers.” For a long time, they were seen as informal lounging attire, something a gentleman might wear while relaxing at home in the evening, perhaps while reading or smoking, but not necessarily for sleeping in. The traditional nightshirt held firm as the standard sleeping garment for men.
The Great Sleepwear Shift: Men Embrace Comfort
The late 19th and early 20th centuries marked the real transition of pajamas into the realm of sleepwear for Western men. Several factors likely contributed to this shift. Increasing travel and exposure to different cultures made the style less alien. Perhaps more importantly, the perception of comfort began to change. The loose trousers and matching top offered more freedom of movement than the often cumbersome nightshirt.
Manufacturers started producing pajama sets specifically marketed as sleepwear. These often featured more tailored designs than the original Eastern versions, sometimes with buttoned tops resembling shirts but made from softer fabrics like cotton, silk, or later, flannel for warmth. Advertisements began promoting pajamas as the modern, more comfortable alternative to the old-fashioned nightshirt. The practicality argument was strong: no more getting tangled in a long gown during the night.
Why the Change Stuck
Several elements helped solidify the pajama’s place:
- Comfort: The two-piece design offered greater ease of movement.
- Practicality: Less fabric to get twisted in bed compared to a nightshirt.
- Modernity: Pajamas were perceived as more contemporary and worldly.
- Influence: As influential figures adopted them, they gained wider acceptance.
- Heating: As homes became better heated, the need for very heavy nightshirts diminished, making lighter pajamas more appealing year-round.
By the early 20th century, pajamas had largely usurped the nightshirt as the standard sleepwear for men in many Western countries. The nightshirt didn’t disappear entirely, but it was relegated to a more traditional or even old-fashioned choice.
A Slower Acceptance: Pajamas for Women
While men were adopting pajamas relatively quickly, women’s adoption lagged significantly behind. The primary barrier was social convention. Trousers were strictly considered men’s attire in the West. For a woman to wear bifurcated garments, especially for something as intimate as sleepwear, was seen as radical, unfashionable, and even slightly scandalous.
Early pioneers did exist, but they were exceptions. It wasn’t until the early 20th century, particularly the 1920s, that pajamas began to make inroads into women’s wardrobes, and initially, not primarily as sleepwear. Trailblazing designers like Paul Poiret introduced exotic, flowing “harem pants” inspired by Eastern styles for evening wear. However, it was arguably Coco Chanel who truly popularized the idea of women wearing pajama-style trousers, initially for leisure and beachwear.
Important Note: The adoption of pajamas by women was closely tied to broader shifts in women’s fashion and social roles. The move towards more practical clothing and the challenging of traditional gender norms in dress paved the way. It started as daring loungewear or beachwear before becoming accepted sleepwear.
Chanel championed relaxed, comfortable clothing for women, and her chic “beach pajamas” – wide-legged trousers paired with simple tops – became fashionable among the avant-garde. Hollywood also played a role, with glamorous film stars sometimes depicted lounging in elegant silk pajamas. This gradual exposure helped normalize the idea. Slowly, women began adopting pajama sets specifically designed for sleeping, often in softer fabrics like silk or rayon, and featuring more feminine cuts and embellishments compared to men’s versions.
Diversification and Mainstream Appeal: Mid-Century and Beyond
From the mid-20th century onwards, pajamas became firmly established sleepwear for both men and women, and designs began to diversify rapidly. Manufacturers experimented with a vast array of fabrics:
- Cotton: Breathable and versatile, suitable for year-round wear.
- Flannel: Warm and cozy, popular for winter months.
- Silk and Satin: Luxurious and smooth, often associated with elegance.
- Synthetics: Rayon, nylon, and later polyester offered affordability and different textures.
Styles also proliferated. Beyond the classic long-sleeved, long-trouser set, options emerged like short-sleeved tops with shorts (“shortie pajamas”), sleeveless tops, and variations that blurred the lines with nightgowns, like the “baby doll” pajama. Children’s pajamas became a huge market, often featuring bright colors, cartoon characters, and safety features like flame-retardant fabrics.
From Sleepwear to Loungewear (and Back Again?)
In recent decades, the distinction between sleepwear and loungewear has become increasingly blurred. The comfort associated with pajamas has led to styles designed explicitly for relaxing around the house, not just sleeping. Think plush fleece pajama pants worn all weekend, or elegant silk sets that wouldn’t look entirely out of place receiving an unexpected guest.
The rise of remote work culture, particularly accelerated in recent years, further eroded the boundaries. People sought comfort while working from home, and pajama bottoms paired with a more formal top became a common, if sometimes hidden, outfit choice. Fashion designers also picked up on the trend, incorporating pajama-inspired elements into daywear – think silky shirts with contrast piping, wide-leg trousers resembling pajama bottoms, or even full pajama sets worn as a coordinated outfit for outings.
So, the humble pajama has completed a remarkable circular journey. It began as practical daywear in the East, was adopted as exotic loungewear by Western travelers, transformed into standard sleepwear for men and eventually women, and has now re-emerged as acceptable, even fashionable, loungewear and sometimes daywear. It’s a testament to the enduring appeal of comfort and the fascinating ways clothing styles travel across cultures and adapt to changing lifestyles and social norms. Next time you pull on your PJs, remember their rich and surprisingly global history.
