Few treats conjure up such universal feelings of comfort and simple pleasure as the donut. Whether it’s a classic glazed ring, a powdered sugar pillow filled with jelly, or a fancy modern creation topped with bacon bits and maple syrup, the donut holds a special place in our culinary landscape. But this humble fried dough hasn’t always been the perfectly round, often-holed delight we know today. Its history is a long, winding, and surprisingly global journey, starting with far simpler, and often much oilier, beginnings.
Echoes of Antiquity: The First Fried Doughs
The concept of frying dough is ancient, stretching back millennia across various cultures. While not donuts in the modern sense, these early iterations laid the groundwork. Archaeological evidence suggests that prehistoric peoples likely cooked dough mixtures on hot stones, sometimes incorporating fats. Moving into recorded history, the Ancient Romans had treats like scriblita, a type of fried dough often drizzled with honey. Ancient Greeks also enjoyed fried dough preparations. These weren’t standardized; they were often simple, rustic fare, likely heavy and dense compared to today’s airy delights. The key elements were there: flour, water, leavening (or lack thereof), and hot fat for cooking. These were practical ways to make grains palatable and provide energy.
Throughout the Middle Ages in Europe, various forms of fried pastries continued to evolve. Different regions developed their own specialties, often associated with festivals or religious observances. Think of Spanish churros, Portuguese malasadas, or German Berliners. These weren’t called donuts, of course, but they shared the core concept of sweetened, fried dough. They varied greatly in shape, size, and density, often lacking the refined sugar glazes or complex fillings we associate with donuts now.
The Dutch Connection: Olykoeks Arrive in America
A significant step towards the modern donut occurred in the Netherlands. The Dutch enjoyed olykoeks, translating literally to “oil cakes.” These were balls of sweetened dough fried in pork fat until golden brown. They sound quite donut-like, right? Well, almost. Early olykoeks had a slight issue: the center often cooked more slowly than the outside, resulting in a doughy, undercooked middle. To combat this, Dutch bakers would sometimes stuff the center with fruit, nuts, or other fillings that didn’t require as much cooking time. These weren’t ring-shaped yet, more like dense, fried spheres or blobs.
When Dutch settlers arrived in New Amsterdam (which would later become New York) in the early 17th century, they brought their beloved olykoeks with them. These treats gained popularity in the American colonies, mingling with other existing fried dough traditions brought by settlers from Britain and elsewhere. The name gradually morphed, with some suggesting “dough nuts” referred to the nuts placed in the center or simply the small, nut-like shape of the fried dough balls.
The Hole Truth: Invention or Evolution?
So, how did the donut get its iconic hole? This is where history blends with folklore. The most popular story credits a New England ship captain named Hanson Gregory. The legend, dating back to the mid-19th century, has a few variations. One version claims that in 1847, Gregory, finding his olykoeks too greasy and the centers uncooked, punched a hole in the middle with the top of a round tin pepper box. Another, more colorful version, suggests he impaled the pastry on one of the spokes of his ship’s steering wheel so he could use both hands to navigate during a storm.
Did Hanson Gregory truly invent the hole? It’s hard to say definitively. His mother, Elizabeth Gregory, was also known for her excellent fried cakes, sometimes adding spices like nutmeg and lemon rind, and placing hazelnuts or walnuts in the center where the dough might not cook through. It’s possible the hole evolved simply as a practical solution to the uneven cooking problem – removing the center allows the heat to penetrate evenly, resulting in a perfectly cooked pastry inside and out. Whatever the exact origin, the ring shape proved incredibly successful, solving the soggy middle issue and creating the donut shape we recognize instantly today.
Did you know? Donuts gained significant popularity in the United States thanks to World War I. Salvation Army volunteers, known as “Doughnut Lassies,” served fried donuts to American soldiers on the front lines in France. These women worked tirelessly, often in difficult conditions near the trenches, providing a taste of home and comfort. This act cemented the donut as a symbol of American resilience and home-front support.
Mass Production and Mainstream Appeal
The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw donuts transition from home kitchens and small bakeries to wider availability. The real game-changer came in 1920 when an entrepreneur named Adolph Levitt invented the first automated donut-making machine in New York City. His fascinating gadget churned out perfectly formed, ring-shaped donuts, frying them and flipping them automatically. Exhibited at the 1934 World’s Fair in Chicago under the banner “The Food Hit of the Century of Progress,” Levitt’s machine mesmerized audiences and solidified the donut as a modern, convenient food.
The popularization during WWI, coupled with automation, set the stage for the donut’s golden age. Donuts were cheap, filling, and increasingly easy to produce and purchase. They became a breakfast staple, a coffee break companion, and an affordable treat for working-class Americans. The post-World War II era saw the rise of dedicated donut shops and chains, further embedding them into the cultural fabric.
The Rise of Donut Empires and Modern Marvels
The mid-20th century witnessed the birth of iconic donut brands that remain powerhouses today. Vernon Rudolph started Krispy Kreme in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, in 1937, initially selling donuts wholesale to grocery stores before cutting a hole in his building’s wall to sell hot, fresh glazed donuts directly to passersby drawn by the aroma. William Rosenberg opened the first Dunkin’ Donuts in Quincy, Massachusetts, in 1950, focusing on pairing donuts with quality coffee and offering a wide variety of flavors.
These chains, and others that followed, standardized production, expanded varieties, and made donuts accessible nationwide, and eventually, worldwide. The classic glazed, chocolate frosted, jelly-filled, and cake donuts became familiar favorites.
While the classics endure, recent decades have seen a donut renaissance. Independent bakeries and gourmet donut shops have sprung up, treating the donut as a canvas for culinary creativity. We now see donuts with sophisticated glazes, unusual fillings (like lavender honey or matcha cream), and savory toppings. From simple street food to artisanal creations, the donut continues to evolve, reflecting changing tastes and culinary trends.
From ancient oily cakes enjoyed by Romans and Dutch settlers to the precisely engineered, endlessly customizable treats of today, the donut’s journey is a testament to culinary ingenuity and our enduring love for simple, satisfying sweetness. It’s a history baked in tradition, punched through with innovation, and glazed with global appeal. The next time you bite into that ring of fried perfection, remember the long and delicious history behind it.
“`
