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Hiding the Bump: Early Approaches
Before the 20th century, dedicated maternity clothing as we know it simply didn’t exist for most women. Pregnancy was often considered a delicate condition, something to be experienced privately rather than publicly acknowledged through dress. Women typically relied on modifying their existing wardrobes or wearing loose-fitting garments. Aprons were strategically deployed to obscure the growing belly in the earlier stages. Layering was key, with shawls, capes, and loose jackets helping to camouflage the changing figure. Existing dresses might have adjustable lacing or panels incorporated, allowing for some expansion. Wealthier women might have had gowns specifically made with adjustable features, but these were still designed to minimize the appearance of pregnancy rather than accommodate it comfortably or stylistically. The focus was overwhelmingly on maintaining a semblance of the ‘normal’ female figure for as long as possible. Comfort was secondary to discretion. Fabrics were often heavy, and the construction didn’t lend itself to the physical needs of a pregnant person.The Dawn of Specialized Garments: Early to Mid-20th Century
The turn of the 20th century saw the very beginnings of commercially available maternity wear, though the goal remained largely concealment. Companies like Lane Bryant, founded in the early 1900s, were pioneers, initially creating clothing designed for “expectant mothers” that offered more room and adjustability, yet still adhered to the modest aesthetics of the time. Early designs often featured intricate systems of drawstrings, buttons, and wraps hidden within relatively shapeless dresses or skirts. Ironically, maternity corsets also existed, designed not for waist-cinching but supposedly for support – a concept that seems counterintuitive today but reflects the era’s obsession with structured undergarments. The post-World War II era brought a slight shift. As the baby boom generation began, pregnancy became marginally more visible, partly thanks to brave television portrayals like Lucille Ball’s carefully negotiated pregnancy storyline on “I Love Lucy.” While Lucy was often filmed behind furniture or wearing loose tops, it was a step towards acknowledging pregnancy in the public eye. Fashion responded with styles like the smock top and the A-line dress or tunic, which offered volume and relative comfort without explicitly celebrating the pregnant form. Tent dresses became a popular, if not particularly flattering, solution.Lane Bryant is often credited with creating the first commercially produced maternity wear in the early 1900s. Lena Himmelstein Bryant started by designing a dress with an elastic waistband and accordion-pleated skirt for a pregnant client. This innovation addressed the need for clothing that could adapt to a changing body, marking a significant step in maternity fashion history.Separates also gained traction, allowing for more flexibility. Skirts and trousers started appearing with adjustable waistbands or simple elastic inserts, offering a departure from the one-piece dress standard.
Finding Form and Function: Late 20th Century
The social revolutions of the 1960s and 70s gradually influenced maternity wear. While the voluminous tent dresses and muumuus certainly persisted, a growing sense of female empowerment led some women to desire clothing that didn’t completely hide their shape. Stretch fabrics began to play a more significant role, although they were not as sophisticated as the materials used today. Knits offered more give than woven fabrics. The 1980s saw the continuation of oversized trends, which conveniently doubled as maternity wear, but also the emergence of more tailored options with clever pleating and elastic panels. Maternity jeans, often with high, stretchy waist panels, became a wardrobe staple, signalling a move towards incorporating pregnant bodies into everyday fashion norms. Designers started thinking more about practicality. Clothing needed to be comfortable for sitting, standing, and moving, and ideally, washable and durable. The focus slowly shifted from pure concealment towards accommodation and comfort, though high fashion still largely ignored the maternity market.The Celebration Era: 21st Century and Beyond
The late 1990s and early 2000s marked a significant turning point, famously highlighted by celebrities embracing fitted clothing on red carpets, showcasing their bumps rather than hiding them. This shift dramatically altered the perception and design of maternity wear. Key developments in modern maternity wear include:- Fabric Innovation: The widespread use of spandex, lycra, jersey, and sophisticated stretch blends revolutionized comfort and fit. These fabrics allow garments to hug curves, provide support, and grow with the body.
- Mainstream Style Mimicry: Maternity fashion now closely follows mainstream trends. Pregnant individuals can find maternity versions of skinny jeans, leggings, bodycon dresses, stylish tops, and professional wear. The goal is often to maintain one’s personal style throughout pregnancy.
- Specialized Construction: Design features like ruched sides on tops and dresses accommodate a growing belly while maintaining a flattering shape. Over-the-belly and under-the-belly bands on trousers and skirts offer different support and comfort options.
- Versatility and Longevity: Many brands now focus on creating pieces that work during pregnancy and postpartum. Nursing-friendly features (discreet zippers, crossover necklines, lift-up panels) are often integrated into maternity tops and dresses. Wrap dresses, empire-waist styles, and stretchy basics are designed for extended wear.
- Rise of Niche Brands: Numerous brands now specialize solely in maternity and nursing wear, offering a vast range of styles, price points, and aesthetics, from budget-friendly basics to designer labels.
- Sustainability Focus: Growing awareness has led to an increase in maternity clothing rental services and a thriving second-hand market, addressing the temporary nature of these garments.
