Content
The Tomato Transformation
The game truly changed with the introduction of the tomato. Though brought to Europe from the Americas much earlier, tomatoes were initially viewed with suspicion in Italy, sometimes considered ornamental or even poisonous. It took time, particularly in the poorer regions of the south like Campania, for the tomato to find its place in the kitchen. Sometime in the late 18th or early 19th century, resourceful Neapolitans began experimenting with adding tomatoes to their flatbreads. This addition provided moisture, acidity, and a vibrant colour, transforming the simple bread into something far more flavourful and appealing. This tomato-topped flatbread laid the groundwork for what we now universally call pizza. The earliest pizzerias began to emerge, moving the operation from street carts to dedicated shops. Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba in Naples, often cited as the world’s first pizzeria, started as a stand for street vendors in 1738 before opening as a restaurant proper in 1830, a place where people could sit and enjoy their meal. These establishments further cemented pizza’s role in Neapolitan culture.The Royal Seal of Approval? The Margherita Legend
No story of pizza is complete without mentioning the creation of the Pizza Margherita. The popular tale recounts that in 1889, Queen Margherita of Savoy, wife of King Umberto I, visited Naples. Tired of the complex French haute cuisine often served to royalty, she requested to try the local speciality – pizza. Pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito of Pizzeria Brandi (successor to Pietro… e basta così) is said to have prepared three varieties for her. The Queen reportedly disliked the first two (one with lard, caciocavallo, and basil; another with cecenielli – whitebait). However, she was apparently captivated by the third: a pizza topped with tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, and fresh basil, ingredients chosen to represent the colours of the newly unified Italian flag (red, white, and green). Esposito, thrilled with the Queen’s preference, named this creation in her honour: Pizza Margherita. While historical debate exists regarding the exact sequence of events and whether other similar pizzas already existed, the story itself was incredibly influential. It elevated pizza from mere peasant food to a dish worthy of royalty, giving it national recognition and a patriotic association.The traditional art of Neapolitan pizza making, the ‘Pizzaiuolo’, received international acclaim. In 2017, UNESCO inscribed this culinary practice on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. This recognition highlights the cultural significance and the specific techniques passed down through generations in Naples. It emphasizes the importance of the ingredients, the dough handling, the wood-fired oven, and the pizza maker’s skill.
Pizza Crosses the Ocean
For decades, pizza remained largely a Neapolitan and Southern Italian speciality. Its journey to becoming a global phenomenon began with waves of Italian emigration in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Millions of Italians, primarily from the poorer southern regions, sought better opportunities abroad, particularly in the United States. They brought their language, their traditions, and, crucially, their recipes. In Italian-American enclaves in cities like New York City, Boston, New Haven, and Trenton, immigrants opened small bakeries and grocery stores. Some began selling pizza, initially catering almost exclusively to fellow Italians. Gennaro Lombardi is credited with opening the first licensed pizzeria in the United States in New York’s Little Italy in 1905, using a coal-fired oven. Early American pizza closely resembled its Neapolitan ancestor – relatively thin crust, simple toppings. It was still ethnic food, unfamiliar to most non-Italians.American Innovation and the Post-War Boom
Pizza’s big break in America, and consequently the world, came after World War II. American soldiers stationed in Italy developed a taste for local cuisine, including pizza. Returning home, they sought out this delicious discovery, significantly boosting its popularity beyond Italian-American communities. This coincided with a period of increased prosperity and suburbanization in the US. American ingenuity quickly adapted pizza to local tastes and available ingredients. This led to the development of distinct regional styles:- New York Style: Characterized by its large, thin, foldable slices, typically baked in coal or deck ovens. It evolved from the Neapolitan style but became grander in scale.
- Chicago Deep-Dish: A stark contrast, developed in the 1940s (Pizzeria Uno is often credited). Baked in a high-sided pan, it features a thick, buttery crust forming a deep bowl filled generously with cheese, toppings, and sauce – often in that order.
- St. Louis Style: Known for its extremely thin, cracker-like, unleavened crust, cut into squares (“party cut” or “tavern cut”), and traditionally topped with Provel processed cheese.
- New Haven Style (“apizza”): Similar to New York but often more rustic, with a chewy, charred crust from high-temperature coal ovens, less cheese, and unique toppings like white clam pizza.
Pizza Takes Over the World
Fueled by American cultural influence (movies, TV shows, fast-food expansion), pizza spread rapidly across the globe from the mid-20th century onwards. However, it wasn’t simply copied; it was adapted and reinterpreted everywhere it went, becoming a culinary canvas for local flavours.- In Brazil, pizzas often feature creative toppings like Catupiry cheese, hearts of palm, corn, and even sweet dessert pizzas with chocolate and fruit.
- Japan offers unique variations incorporating mayonnaise, corn, potatoes, seafood like squid, or teriyaki chicken. Okonomiyaki-inspired pizzas exist too.
- India boasts pizzas topped with paneer tikka, tandoori chicken, and local spices.
- In Sweden, the kebab pizza (topped with doner kebab meat, onions, peppers, and yogurt sauce) is immensely popular.
- Even back in Italy, regional variations beyond Naples thrive, like the thicker, rectangular Sicilian pizza (sfincione) or pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) common in Rome.
