That familiar yellow squeeze bottle, or perhaps the sophisticated stone-ground jar brimming with tiny, potent seeds – mustard often sits quietly on our tables, a ubiquitous presence alongside ketchup and mayonnaise. Yet, behind its often bright yellow facade lies a history stretching back millennia, a journey interwoven with ancient medicine, Roman conquests, medieval feasts, and culinary innovation. It’s far more than just a hot dog topping; mustard is a condiment with deep, pungent roots that have spread across the globe.
Whispers from Antiquity
Long before it graced ballpark franks, the mustard plant, a member of the Brassicaceae family (which also includes cabbage, broccoli, and horseradish), was valued for more than just its flavor. Evidence suggests mustard seeds were used thousands of years ago. While pinpointing the exact origin is tricky, archaeological finds hint at its presence in ancient civilizations. The Egyptians, for instance, weren’t strangers to its potent properties. Some accounts suggest pharaohs might have even had mustard seeds tucked into their tombs for the afterlife, though definitive proof remains elusive. What’s clearer is its mention in ancient texts.
The Greeks certainly knew mustard. Figures like Pythagoras, the mathematician, utilized it not just in food but also recognized its potential medicinal qualities. Hippocrates, the father of medicine, employed mustard plasters, believing the heat generated could help with various ailments like chest congestion or aches. It was seen as something that could stimulate the body, both inside and out. The Romans, too, embraced mustard wholeheartedly, appreciating both its culinary zest and its perceived therapeutic benefits.
The Roman Recipe Spreads
The Romans were instrumental in mustard’s proliferation throughout Europe. They were keen cultivators of the plant and, crucially, are credited with creating the first recognizable prepared mustard paste. How did they do it? By grinding the pungent seeds and mixing them with mustum ardens – Latin for “burning must.” Must was the unfermented juice of grapes, readily available during winemaking season. Mixing the crushed seeds with this liquid activated the enzymes responsible for mustard’s characteristic heat and created a simple, flavorful paste.
As the Roman legions marched across Europe, they brought their tastes and agricultural practices with them. Mustard plants were cultivated in newly conquered territories, including Gaul (modern-day France). This introduction laid the groundwork for regions that would later become synonymous with mustard production. The Romans didn’t just eat it; they continued to explore its uses, applying it topically and valuing its ability to preserve meats, albeit likely more for masking flavors than true preservation by modern standards.
Medieval Mustard Mania
Following the fall of the Roman Empire, mustard didn’t fade away. If anything, its popularity surged during the Middle Ages. Spices from the East were incredibly expensive, luxuries reserved for the wealthiest nobles. Mustard, however, could be grown relatively easily across Europe, making it an accessible way to add desperately needed flavor and kick to the often bland and monotonous diets of the time. It became the common person’s spice.
Monasteries often played a role in cultivating mustard and refining its preparation, keeping the knowledge alive. Towns began to develop reputations for their mustard. By the 13th and 14th centuries, mustard making was becoming a distinct craft in certain areas. Guilds sometimes regulated its production, ensuring a level of quality and consistency. Paris and other French cities were early centers, but one town was beginning to distinguish itself.
The Romans are widely credited with creating the first condiment paste from mustard seeds. They mixed crushed seeds with ‘mustum’, unfermented grape juice, leading to the term ‘mustum ardens’ or ‘burning must’. This practice not only created a flavorful sauce but also helped spread mustard cultivation throughout their empire. This Roman innovation laid the foundation for the prepared mustards we know today.
The Rise of Dijon
While mustard was popular throughout France, the city of Dijon, in the Burgundy region, became inextricably linked with the condiment. Burgundy was already known for its vineyards, meaning access to wine and vinegar – key ingredients for more refined mustard recipes. Around the 13th century, Dijon was already recognized for its mustard production.
What set Dijon mustard apart? While early Roman versions used ‘must,’ later developments, particularly in Dijon, favoured mixing the ground seeds (often using the less pungent brown or black seeds, Brassica juncea or Brassica nigra) with verjuice instead of vinegar. Verjuice is the acidic juice of unripe grapes. This substitution resulted in a smoother, less acidic, but often more potent flavour profile compared to mustards made solely with vinegar.
Protecting the Name
The mustard makers of Dijon were serious about their craft. By the 17th century, stringent regulations governed mustard production in the city to protect its quality and reputation. These rules dictated ingredients and methods. In 1777, a significant partnership formed when Maurice Grey, a mustard maker with a unique recipe, joined forces with Antoine Poupon, who provided the financial backing. The house of Grey-Poupon became iconic, further cementing Dijon’s status as the mustard capital.
It’s important to note, however, that “Dijon mustard” today is largely a generic term referring to a style or recipe, rather than a protected geographical indication like Champagne. While mustard is still made in Dijon, mustards labelled “Dijon” can be produced anywhere, provided they generally follow the method of using ground brown/black seeds and verjuice or white wine.
Mustard Crosses the Pond and Goes Yellow
Mustard inevitably journeyed across the Atlantic with European settlers. It was grown in the gardens of early American colonists and used much as it had been in Europe – as a flavouring and for medicinal purposes. For a long time, prepared mustard in America resembled European styles, often brown and robust.
The game-changer arrived in 1904 at the St. Louis World’s Fair. This event is famous for popularizing several American food staples, including the ice cream cone and, arguably, the modern hot dog. It was here that the R.T. French Company introduced its “Cream Salad Mustard.” What made it different? It used finely milled, milder yellow mustard seeds (Sinapis alba) and coloured them bright yellow with turmeric. Combined with vinegar and other spices, it resulted in a milder, smoother, vibrantly coloured mustard perfectly suited, as it turned out, for slathering on hot dogs.
This American-style yellow mustard became incredibly popular, defining the condiment for generations of Americans. Its milder tang and bright appearance made it a kid-friendly favourite and a staple at barbecues and sporting events. While European styles remained, yellow mustard carved out a massive niche.
A World of Mustard Today
Walk down the condiment aisle today, and the sheer variety of mustard is staggering. The mustard world is far broader than just Dijon and American yellow. You have:
- Whole Grain Mustard: Also known as stone-ground mustard, where some or all of the seeds are left whole or coarsely ground, providing a distinct texture and often a robust flavour.
- Spicy Brown Mustard: Common in delis, this type often uses brown seeds, includes bran, and has a noticeable spiciness, sometimes enhanced with other seasonings.
- Honey Mustard: A sweeter take, blending mustard (often Dijon or yellow) with honey for a popular dipping sauce and dressing base.
- Sweet Mustards: Found particularly in Bavarian cuisine, often served with Weisswurst, these are much sweeter and milder.
- Hot Mustards: English mustard is known for its intense heat, often made simply from ground seeds, water/vinegar, and little else. Chinese mustard delivers a similar potent kick, clearing the sinuses instantly.
- Flavoured Mustards: The creativity is endless – horseradish mustard, dill mustard, beer mustard, fruit-infused mustards… the list goes on.
The Science of Spice
What gives mustard its characteristic pungent heat? It’s chemistry in action. Mustard seeds contain compounds called glucosinolates and an enzyme called myrosinase. These are kept separate within the plant’s cells. When the seeds are crushed or broken and mixed with a liquid (like water, vinegar, or verjuice), the cell walls rupture, allowing the enzyme and the glucosinolates to mix. This reaction produces isothiocyanates – the compounds responsible for the heat and sharp flavour we associate with mustard. Different types of mustard seeds produce slightly different compounds, leading to variations in heat and flavour profiles. The type of liquid used (acidic liquids like vinegar tend to stabilize and prolong the heat, while water can lead to a quicker, sharper burst) also affects the final taste.
From ancient medicinal plasters and Roman ‘burning must’ to the regulated craft of Dijon and the bright yellow streams adorning modern fast food, mustard’s journey is remarkable. It has adapted, evolved, and diversified, yet its fundamental appeal – that pungent, versatile kick – remains unchanged. It’s a testament to the enduring power of a simple seed, transformed by time and human ingenuity into one of the world’s most beloved condiments. So next time you reach for the mustard, remember the thousands of years of history packed into that humble jar or bottle.
