Before the late 1930s, a woman’s choice for enhancing the look of her legs was limited and often costly. Silk stockings were the peak of luxury, shimmering delicately but snagging and running with frustrating ease. They whispered expense and required careful handling. Rayon, an early artificial silk, offered a more affordable alternative, but lacked silk’s sheer beauty and often bagged unattractively at the knees and ankles after washing. Cotton lisle stockings were durable and practical, certainly, but far from the glamorous ideal many women sought. Legwear was either a fragile indulgence or a purely functional necessity, with little ground in between. This was the world waiting, unknowingly, for a revolution spun from coal, water, and air.
The Miracle Fiber Emerges
Deep within the laboratories of DuPont, chemists were on a quest for an artificial silk substitute. In 1935, a team led by Wallace Carothers achieved a breakthrough, synthesizing a long-chain polymer that could be drawn into incredibly fine, strong, and elastic threads. Initially dubbed “Fiber 66,” it was formally christened Nylon in 1938. DuPont wasn’t shy about its potential. They hailed it as a modern miracle, stronger than steel (by weight), finer than a spider’s web, yet remarkably elastic and resistant to abrasion and chemicals. Its properties seemed almost too good to be true: it was lustrous, lightweight, quick-drying, resistant to moths and mildew, and crucially, it could be heat-set to retain its shape.
The company launched a calculated and brilliant marketing campaign, teasing the public with glimpses of this wonder material. They understood that the most immediate and impactful application was hosiery. Women, tired of the expense of silk and the disappointment of rayon, were captivated by the promise of stockings that were beautiful, durable, and affordable. Anticipation reached fever pitch. Nylon wasn’t just a new textile; it was presented as a symbol of scientific progress and a better future, woven into a product women desired intensely.
N-Day: The Stocking Frenzy
May 15th, 1940, became known as “Nylon Day.” This was the date DuPont released the first nylon stockings for general sale across the United States. The reaction was nothing short of pandemonium. Women lined up for blocks outside department stores, eager to get their hands on the coveted hosiery. Stores limited purchases, often to just one or two pairs per customer, but supplies evaporated within hours. Reports flooded in of near-riots as shoppers jostled and clamored for the chance to buy. The demand was overwhelming, far exceeding DuPont’s initial production capacity.
Within the first few hours of going on sale nationwide on May 15, 1940, an estimated four million pairs of nylon stockings were sold. This staggering number highlights the immense pent-up demand and the success of DuPont’s pre-launch marketing. Demand continued to outstrip supply for months.
Why the frenzy? Nylon stockings delivered on their promise. They were significantly sheerer and smoother than most rayon and even rivaled the finest silks in appearance. Yet, they were tougher. While not indestructible (as early hype sometimes implied), they resisted snags and runs far better than silk. Their elasticity meant a closer, more flattering fit, hugging the curves of the leg without the wrinkles and sags common with older materials. And perhaps most significantly, they were relatively affordable, bringing a touch of everyday glamour within reach of the average working woman.
Transforming Fashion and Daily Life
The arrival of nylon stockings had profound effects that rippled through fashion and society.
Democratization of Glamour
Before nylon, sheer, elegant stockings were largely a status symbol. Silk was expensive, placing it beyond the budget of many. Nylon changed the equation. While not cheap initially, they were considerably less expensive than silk and lasted longer, making them a better value. Suddenly, legs clad in sheer, smooth hosiery were not just for the wealthy elite. Secretaries, factory workers, housewives – women from all walks of life could experience this small luxury. This democratization shifted fashion ideals, making shapely, well-presented legs a more universal standard of grooming and style.
A New Look and Feel
Nylon’s unique properties directly influenced fashion trends. The smooth, uniform appearance and superior fit of nylon stockings encouraged shorter hemlines. Why hide legs that looked so good? The fabric’s sheerness allowed the natural skin tone to show through subtly, creating a polished look. Its elasticity eliminated the need for complex garters and clips solely to prevent sagging, although garter belts remained necessary to hold them up before the invention of pantyhose much later. The overall silhouette became sleeker and more leg-focused.
Practical Advantages
Beyond aesthetics, nylon offered practical benefits that simplified women’s lives. Unlike silk, which required careful hand washing and slow drying, nylon stockings could be washed relatively easily and dried incredibly quickly. This was a significant convenience in an era before widespread automatic washing machines and dryers. Their durability, while not absolute, meant less frequent replacement compared to fragile silk, saving both time and money.
The War Effort and Nylon’s Scarcity
The triumph of nylon stockings was short-lived, interrupted by global conflict. Following the attack on Pearl Harbor in December 1941 and the United States’ entry into World War II, nylon production was almost entirely diverted to the war effort. The same properties that made nylon ideal for stockings – strength, lightness, durability, resistance to mildew – made it invaluable for military applications. It was used for parachutes, ropes, tire cords, flak jackets, mosquito netting, and countless other essential items.
Civilian production of nylon stockings ceased entirely in February 1942. Existing stocks quickly vanished, and women faced a hosiery drought. This period underscored how essential nylon stockings had become in just a couple of years. Women went to great lengths to maintain the fashionable look of stockinged legs. Some drew seams down the backs of their bare legs using eyebrow pencils or special leg makeup kits. Others carefully mended their few remaining pairs or turned to the burgeoning black market, where nylon stockings commanded exorbitant prices. The scarcity only increased their desirability, cementing their status as a coveted item.
Post-War Boom and Innovation
When World War II ended in 1945, women eagerly anticipated the return of nylon stockings. DuPont resumed civilian production, but couldn’t immediately meet the overwhelming pent-up demand. The reintroduction led to the infamous “Nylon Riots” in cities like Pittsburgh and New York, where thousands of women queued, sometimes violently, for the limited supplies available. It took several months for production to catch up and for nylons to become readily accessible again.
The post-war era saw further innovation in nylon hosiery. Manufacturers introduced:
- Seamless Stockings: Early nylons, like silks, had a seam up the back. The development of circular knitting machines allowed for the creation of seamless stockings in the late 1940s and early 1950s, offering an even smoother look.
- Stretch Nylon: Further refinements in processing led to stretch nylon, which provided an even better, more forgiving fit.
- Microfibers and Denier Variations: Finer yarns (lower denier) created even sheerer stockings, while heavier deniers offered more opacity and durability. This gave women more choice depending on the desired look and occasion.
- Color Variations: Beyond the standard neutral tones, manufacturers began offering stockings in a wider array of fashion colors.
These advancements kept nylon stockings at the forefront of fashion for decades. They became a ubiquitous element of a woman’s wardrobe, symbolizing polish, femininity, and modernity.
A Lasting Legacy
The invention of nylon didn’t just create a new type of stocking; it fundamentally changed women’s relationship with hosiery and fashion. It transformed legwear from a fragile luxury or purely functional item into an affordable, durable, and glamorous everyday essential. Nylon democratized style, boosted morale during difficult times, and adapted through innovation to remain relevant for decades. While pantyhose and eventually the trend towards bare legs would later alter the landscape, the initial impact of nylon stockings was nothing short of revolutionary. They represented technological progress made personal, a synthetic marvel that allowed millions of women to quite literally step out in style.
